Travel archive:
Veneto – The Green Hinterland of Venice

Football, pizza, and spring are best experienced in Naples – the city at the foot of Mount Vesuvius, where passion and energy feel almost volcanic. Here, Greeks and Romans, artists and saints have left their mark over centuries. The city is like a universe of its own, and the Neapolitans master, like few others, the art of living in the present – with a deep love for history and an eye toward the future.

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We spend a few memorable days and nights here as spring begins to settle over the Bay of Naples, and the city’s pride, SSC Napoli, welcomes ACF Fiorentina at the Stadio Diego Armando Maradona. The stadium, formerly known as San Paolo, is named after the city’s eternal hero, who led Napoli to its first league title in the 1980s. The memory of Maradona lives on in the hearts of the Neapolitans and can be seen throughout the city – in streets, squares, and everyday life.

Here, in the heart of the south, the salty breeze from the sea blends with the scent of wood-fired pizza ovens, Italian opera and modern electronica, Renaissance art and graffiti. Inland and along the coast, the land is rich with lemon groves, olive trees, and the Falanghina grape, which gives rise to some of Campania’s well-known wines. Another regional delicacy we naturally encounter is the remarkable Mozzarella di Bufala.

During a few intense days together in Naples, we experience il calcio – football, la primavera – spring, and perhaps even clarify, once and for all, the meanings of gelato, carbonara, macchiato, la pasta and la pizza.

Here, food, drink, and football are not a matter of life and death – they are far more important than that.